What Does DCC Ready Mean?

Introduction

What does DCC Ready mean? DCC Ready means that a locomotive has a factory-fitted socket that allows you to quickly upgrade it to DCC. In this article, we take an in-depth look at what it means in relation to particular models and what practical steps are needed to upgrade a locomotive.

Table of Contents

• Can a DDC READY loco run on DC Powered track?
• What about DCC Controlled track?
• What about older locos that don't have DCC READY on the box?
• Fitting DCC Decoders to DCC READY locomotives
• I don't feel confident in hardwiring a loco. What is the alternative?
• Can I use a DCC READY loco on a DCC layout without a decoder?
• With all the different types of decoders available which is best for my locos?
• Are cheaper decoders as good as the more expensive decoders?

So let's dive in. Have you noticed on the boxes of your locomotives, the logo with the term DCC READY? It means that the model is set up and ready to be converted to DCC (Digital Command Control).

Can A DCC READY loco run on DC Powered track?

Absolutely! A DCC READY locomotive can run smoothly on traditional DC analogue controlled layouts without any additional modifications.

What about DCC controlled track?

For DCC digitally controlled layouts, locomotives require a DCC decoder to be fitted. Therefore, the term READY indicates a locomotive is prepared to be converted to DCC by fitting a decoder.

Decoders of various types are readily available, including 4, 6, 8, and 21 pins. Moreover, a new one recently introduced to the market is the Next 18 decoder. The locomotive boxes or supplied instruction sheets usually indicate which type of decoder is needed. It's worth noting that currently, the 21-pin is the most popular decoder. Three examples below clearly demonstrate that a 21-pin decoder is required for converting a locomotive to DCC.

Hornby DCC Ready loco requires a 21-pin decoder

Bachmann DCC Ready loco requires a 21-pin decoder

Dapol DCC Ready loco requires a 21-pin decoder

Some of Bachmann's for example, newest releases are now starting to take the next generation type of decoder, the Next 18 decoder. The following image below will be displayed on the box indicating a Next 18 decoder is required.

Models displaying DCC READY on their boxes are usually fitted with 8-pin decoder sockets. Some may have 6-pin or 4-pin decoders, which are typically found in N scale models or smaller OO scale locomotives, such as Hornby's Sentinel shunter. These may be indicated on the box with DCC READY 6 or DCC READY 4, indicating that a six or four-pin decoder is required.

What about older locos that don't have DCC READY on the box?

Older locomotives without 'DCC READY' on the box can still be converted to DCC. In fact, many manufacturers didn't label their models as DCC Ready in the past. Refer to the locomotive instruction sheet or remove the body to check if it has a DCC socket fitted.

Fitting DCC Decoders to DCC READY Locomotives

To a DCC decoder, it is necessary to remove the loco body to access the decoder socket. Depending on the model, the body can be removed by either unclipping it and lifting it off or by undoing and removing the screws located from the underside of the loco. It is worth noting that some newer models now have removable roof sections for easy access.

Upon inspection, a blanking plug will be found in the decoder socket which enables the loco to run on traditional DC. To convert to DCC, unplug the blanking plug and plug the decoder into the socket.

It is important to note that decoders need to be orientated correctly when plugging them in. On an 8-pin decoder, for example, the orange wire always goes to the number one pin on the plug. On the loco, the number one socket is marked up with a triangle or number 1. Ensure that the number one pin goes into the number one socket. The photo below shows the location of the number one socket.

Fitting DCC Decoders - Non-DCC Ready Models

Older models without decoder sockets will require hard-wiring of decoders. It's important to note that hardwiring requires a certain level of skill and confidence in using a soldering iron.

To successfully hardwire, you'll need to solder four wires on the decoder to the loco wires. These are the decoder's orange and grey wires that connect to the motor, while the decoder's red and black wires connect to the power pick-ups. Remember this helpful saying:

"Red and Black to the track. Orange and Grey to the Motorway."

The simple diagram below shows how to hardwire your decoder to the motor and power pickups.

The other remaining wires on the decoder, are used for the head/tail lights and also the interior lighting. The diagram below shows the blue, white, yellow, green, and purple wires wired up to head and tail lights.

I don't feel confident in hardwiring a loco. What is the alternative?

If you want to hard-wire a decoder, various model shops and DCC specialists offer a DCC fitting service. They can also provide options to fit lighting and DCC sound. Don't hesitate to seek their help if needed!

Can I use a DCC READY loco on a DCC layout without a decoder?

It is imperative to fit a DCC decoder before running the motor on a DCC-controlled layout, as this will prevent any potential damage. The last thing you want is to damage a loco's motor.

With all the different types of decoders available which is best for my locos?

Consult the locomotive model manufacturer's website, or check the supplied paperwork that comes with the locomotive for recommended decoders. Speak with your local model shop or DCC specialist who will advise and supply you with the correct decoder. Remember, if in doubt, always ask!

Are cheaper decoders as good as the more expensive decoders?

Definitely aim for the best decoders that are within your budget. Mid to top-end decoders provide better smooth running and more features compared to cheaper options. It's worth noting that some decoder manufacturers also offer a no-quibble warranty, meaning they will replace any faulty decoders at their discretion, either for free or at a reduced cost.