Building A Model Railway Baseboard

A baseboard is an essential part of building a model railway layout. It's the foundation, and if built correctly, it'll provide many years of enjoyment as you run trains & build up the scenic landscape. So what do you need to consider when building a model railway baseboard? In this article, we help to demystify the art of building a good quality model railway baseboard with a look at some of the common things we're asked about :

• What's The Best Model Railway Baseboard Material?
• Plywood vs MDF - Pros & Cons
• What Height Should A Model Railway Baseboard Be?
• How To Join Model Railway Baseboards
• How To Make A Model Railway Baseboard Using A Kit

What's The Best Model Railway Baseboard Material

The two most popular materials are MDF and Plywood. But bear in mind, the foundation of any model railway is a good baseboard so it's important to chose the right material for your application. Time spent on making sure the baseboard is well constructed will reward you with the trouble-free running of your trains. A poorly built baseboard can lead to all sorts of issues. This can cause problems with track laying which could cause derailments. Building a baseboard for the first time can be a bit daunting for the new railway modeller, especially if you're not confident in doing woodwork yourself. We'll look at a solution towards the end of this guide for those not confident in their carpentry skills, however, If you're confident in woodwork, what type of material should you use to build a baseboard?

Suitable woods for model railway baseboards

• Plywood
• MDF
• Chipboard
• Sundealer Board
• Insulation boards (the thicker dense foam foil-backed type)
• Wood
• Recycled Materials 

Each of the above has its pros & cons for use in model railway baseboard construction, so what should you use? Personal preference & budget will play a part in what's right for you here. Let's look a little further at the materials listed.

• Plywood is available in various thicknesses. Premium, exterior-grade marine and birch plywood are highly recommended for baseboard construction but they can be expensive.
• MDF again is available in various thicknesses & relatively easy to work with for model railway baseboards. It needs to be sealed though if it's to be used in areas prone to dampness or moisture, and you'll need to wear a suitable mask when you cut & sand it.
• Chipboard comes in various thicknesses & is often used by modellers for the baseboard top. It is a heavy material so will need a good solid framework to support it. Avoid using it for portable layouts due to its heavier weight.
• Sundealer board was a popular choice for use as a baseboard surface material with it taking track pins easily. It's easy to cut & shape but needs to be used with a good supporting framework. Avoid using it in areas prone to dampness, moisture & large temperature variations as can warp easily.
• Dense foam insulation boards, like those made by Kingspan, are a popular choice for many model railway baseboard applications. However, these boards require protection on their vertical sides and ends. One effective solution is to fit plywood or MDF to these areas, which not only adds strength but also safeguards the dense foam boards. This method is particularly useful for lightweight boards where weight is a priority. Check out the image below for an example of this protective measure in action.

• Planed wood is an ideal choice for open-frame type baseboards and it can also used for the framework to support plywood, MDF & Chipboard topped baseboards. Used on both permanent home layouts & also portable exhibition layouts.
• Recycled materials are another option. If you are on a tight budget this is a possible option. A word of caution here. If you don't know the history of the material such as where it's been used before, it may contain harmful chemicals or have woodworm so exercise caution here.  There have been instances where recycled timber and boards were used for baseboards and frameworks, only to discover that they were infected with woodworm. This can lead to expensive repairs if the infestation spreads to other areas of your home! I personally know of a few individuals who were caught off guard by using contaminated recycled materials. Therefore, exercise caution when considering the use of recycled timber and boards.

Plywood vs MDF - Pros & Cons

Two of the most popular materials commonly used for baseboards are plywood & MDF. So what are the pros & cons of these two?

MDF - Pros

1. Environmentally friendly as it's made from biodegradable materials & treated waste materials
2. Smooth surface which is great for track laying
3. Easy to cut
4. Lower cost
5. Some versions of MDF are waterproof
6. Easy to paint

MDF - Cons

1. Heavier than plywood
2. Can be damaged on the edges if not careful 
3. Some versions are not waterproof & will need sealing before use
4. Can be weaker than plywood if not properly supported 
5. MDF can contain Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) which emit toxins when cut and could be a health risk (wear a mask when cutting MDF) and where possible choose low-formaldehyde versions such as Medite.

Plywood - Pros

1. Plywood is resistant to moisture (marine ply)
2. Durable due to its cross-grain construction (the grain of each layer runs in alternating directions)
3. Doesn't easily split
4. Relatively lightweight
5. Strength due to its cross-grain construction
6. Easy to paint

Plywood Cons

1. Costs more than MDF
2. Harder to cut & cut edges can delaminate
3. Not all Plywood is waterproof
4. Low-quality plywood may have gaps & voids in them 
5. Some plywood requires maintenance

What Height Should A Model Railway Baseboard Be?

The height of a model railway baseboard depends mainly on who is operating the layout & where it's being located.  A rough height guide is between  42'' (1.06 meters) and 52'' (1.32 meters), but there is no set rule on this. 

How you'll use your layout has probably the biggest bearing on what height the layout should be. If you prefer to sit down to operate the layout, the baseboards need to be lower. If you prefer to stand to operate the layout, mount the baseboard at a comfortable height so that you can work easily and reach all sections, but make sure it's not too high.

If you have younger family members or family members who use a wheelchair, it's worth setting the baseboard at a suitable height for them to be able to enjoy operating the layout. Some enterprising folk have their layouts so they are height adjustable. This can be done using adjustable trestles, or by suspending the layout from the ceiling for example.

Another factor is the location of the layout where it'll be housed. For example in a loft with a low headroom, then the baseboards will naturally have to be positioned at a much lower height

How To Join Model Railway Baseboards

Common methods include clamps, coach bolts & alignment dowels. As with baseboard materials though, joining baseboard sections is another critical part of building a model railway. There may be occasions or the need to have removable baseboards where just a section needs to be removed. Or even a layout which is made of sections that can be easily dismantled on a regular basis. A good example of this would be a portable exhibition layout. Removable sections may also be needed for access such as a doorway or accessing another part of the layout room. Removable sections also allow for easier layout maintenance too. So how does one join up baseboards? Below are some of the popular methods used. 

• G-Clamps. Butt up the baseboards together & use the G-Clamp to clamp & hold the ends of the baseboard together. Quick and easy to use, but they don't offer precise alignment.

• Grip Clamps. The type that is used for woodworking allows for quick clamping with one hand. Butt two baseboard ends together & hold the ends of the baseboards together. As with G clamps, they can be awkward when it comes to aligning baseboard sections.

• Coach Bolts are another easy way to join baseboards together. To use these, temporarily clamp the baseboards together. Drill a couple of holes through the ends of the two baseboards. Once drilled, remove the clamps & insert the coach bolts into the hole in both baseboards. Place a washer over the end & the screw tight the end nut. Use a wing nut to allow the baseboards to be tightened or released by hand.

• Alignment dowels & sockets. This method allows quick & easy joining of baseboards. Both ends of the baseboards to be joined need to be temporarily clamped together. A hole is then drilled through both ends of the two baseboards just big enough to take an alignment dowel & socket. The hole needs to be a tight fit. Once drilled, release the clamps & separate the baseboards. Into one hole, tap (using a hammer) into place a metal alignment dowel (Male dowel). On the other baseboard tap the female socket dowel into the other hole. The baseboards can then be joined together by bringing them together & the male dowel will insert into the female dowel. This keeps both baseboards perfectly aligned.  Baseboards joined using this method will still require clamping with coach bolts or G clamps.

• Another form of locating dowels is the flanged type. These will need a large recess drilled into the end of the baseboards followed by a smaller hole within the recess for the socket. 

How To Make A Model Railway Baseboard Using A Kit

Model railway baseboard kits are a great way to build a layout if your woodworking skills are limited. If you're not confident with woodwork or you're limited on time then baseboard kits are the way to go.  Model Railway Baseboard kits give you accurate easy assemble baseboards. We have various baseboards available that include micro layout baseboards boards that fit into handy storage boxes.  We also have modular boards that allow you to expand your layout as required. They can be easily assembled in around 30 mins, so you'll be able to crack on with track laying and doing all the really enjoyable bits in a short space of time. The only tools you'll need are your hands, a mallet or small hammer & some wood glue. 

The baseboards are laser cut for accurate & easy assembly. Designed as a tight friction fit, a mallet or small hammer may be needed to lightly tap each part into place. 

Pre-cut holes are included for taking the wiring through cross-brace pieces, as shown in the photo above. The cross braces & side/end frames slot into each other. These then slot into the baseboard top & also the back scene boards. In the photo below you can see the cross braces & frame being fitted onto the underside of the baseboard top section.

Apply wood glue along the edges of each section before assembling them. The baseboard kits once assembled, allow time for the glue to dry & set. They can then be painted or primed to seal them to protect them from moisture as required. We recommend sealing the baseboards if they are to be used in areas prone to dampness or moisture. Rustin MDF sealer is ideal for the job. Apply the sealer using a paintbrush and allow it to fully dry before laying your track or commencing scenic work.

To make joining the baseboards easy, each baseboard kit comes with a pack of joiners including spacers, bolts, washers & nuts, or wing nuts. Additional joiner packs are also available should you wish to expand your layout further with additional baseboards. The baseboards have pre-cut holes for the bolts to join the individual baseboard sections together. The photo below shows the baseboard ends fitted with the supplied end spacers. These are glued onto the outer ends of the as shown below or they can be left loose if preferred. 

Next, simply insert the bolt & washer through the pre-cut bolt holes as shown below.

Fit a washer to the other end of the bolt, then fit the wing nut. Tighten to secure the sections together as shown below. Repeat the process with the second supplied bolt & nut.

The assembled baseboard kit will look something like the BB017 shown below. Additional addon baseboards are available to extend the baseboards if required.

With the baseboard assembled & sealed, track laying, wiring up & scenics can then begin. Baseboard assembly through to running a train can be easily achieved in a day depending on your track plan. The scenery can then be started afterwards at your leisure. Below is Dunn Street Yard which is our own micro layout, seen during a night running session.