Our laser-cut bowstring bridge kits make fantastic centrepieces for your layout, adding real impact and creating dynamic, detailed scenes. They're available in single and double-track configurations and can also be daisy-chained with our girder bridges to make an even more eye-catching scene. They're also available in both N scale and OO scale.
Whilst our bowstring bridges look appear to be complex and detailed structures, the kits are actually surprisingly simple to assemble, with the main bridge being made from just a handful of main structural components which slot together. The rivet & bolt detail then being added with engraved overlays etc.
Once assembled though, they do require painting and weathering, just like the real prototypes. But that's actually quite simple too. And that's what we're going to walk you through in this guide.
Painting your bowstring bridge
For painting our bowstring bridge, we've used an aerosol grey colour primer spray can paint. This serves as the base coat. Grey colour spray can primer paint is available from model shops, car accessory shops, arts, and craft shops, online, etc. Alternatively, you could use a matt finish dark or mid-green, or a red oxide primer.
The bridge was given two coats of paint, with ample time allowed for the first coat to completely dry before applying the second coat. The spray cans simplify reaching all the narrow areas at the ends of the girders. Also, don't forget to paint the underside of the bridge as well. Use caution when painting the raised rivet details to prevent an excessively thick paint coat from obscuring the rivet detail. Spray the paint from a distance of approximately 30 cm from the bridge, using a steady sweeping motion to achieve a uniform paint coverage.
Safety Tip: When spray painting, it's crucial to work in a well-ventilated space and wear a suitable face mask. This will protect you from inhaling tiny paint particles that can be harmful to your health.
Weathering bridges using powders or pastels
Once the paint has dried, it's time to weather the bridge. Here we'll be using weathering powders, specifically going for track grime and rust colours on this project. We'll also use a range of grey shades, from dark to light, along with black. Browse our range of weathering powders here.
Alternatively, you can use artist pastels from art shops. Simply scrape and shave the pastel sticks over a dish to collect the scrapings. Both the pastels and weathering powders serve the same purpose, so it ultimately boils down to your personal preference on which one to use.
Other tools required
To achieve the best results, we recommend using a cheap firm-hold, unscented air spray. Hair spray serves as both a foundation for applying the weathering powder onto, and also as a protective top coat to hold the weathering powders in position. You will also need cotton earbud tips (Q tips) or similar, along with a variety of brushes including small flat brushes, round-type brushes, and a makeup sponge applicator. For cleanliness, it is advisable to wear disposable gloves during the process as working with weathering powders can get messy.
When working on weathering the bridge, refer to real photos of girder bridges as a guide. Google is a great source of photographic material.
Protect your work area
Working with weathering powders & pastels can be quite messy, so it's well worth covering your bench or work area with newspaper, a plastic table cloth or even a black bin liner.
The Weathering Process
Begin weathering the bridge start on the top and sides & work downwards. Apply hairspray to a small section of the bridge you wish to weather first and start with dark or black weathering powder. Load a brush with a small amount of weathering powder and apply it to the bridge surface. Use a flat brush to work the powder into & across the surface being weathered. Next, use a makeup sponge applicator to soften & blend the weathering powder as required. Gently wipe the sponge applicator across the surface in various directions to achieve the effect you desire. Pay attention to areas where dirt would naturally accumulate and streak down vertical, sloped surfaces to mimic rainwater runoff. Stroking the sponge downwards will create streaks towards the bottom of the girder.
Once you are content with the application of the black weathering powder, switch to a dark grey and repeat the process as necessary. Keep repeating this process using lighter greys each time to add depth to the weathering. Applying thin layers of various light greys to mimic water streaks and dust. Furthermore, add concentrated patches of white in areas where pigeons, gulls and other birds would perch on the bridge, like the undersides of ledges, to depict bird droppings. Next time you are passing under a railway girder bridge, look up at it underneath, you'll be certain to see what we mean with the pigeons.
Adding rust effects to your bridge
To give your bridge an even more authentic and weathered appearance, it'll need some rust effects. Use rust-coloured powders like dark rust, bright oxide rust, and orange or similar. Refer to photos of steel and iron bridges to understand how rust forms on them. Keep in mind that if the bridge has slopes or vertical sides, the rust streaks will naturally flow downwards, again due to rain. Rust patches typically have a brighter red/orange hue at the centre, while the edges tend to be a darker red/oxide shade. Experiment by blending the rust colours on a kitchen towel or paper to see what effects you can achieve. Once you are satisfied with the result, apply the rust mixture to the desired areas on the model.
Rust is commonly found on ledges, vertical sides, joint lines, & rivets. Also on areas where paint has peeled away to reveal bare steel or iron. In the highlighted image below, a simple rusty effect has been achieved using weathering powders. The rust effect has been applied to the flat edges and the rivet gusset plates as shown & highlighted in the image below.
A further example is highlighted in the image below. Areas include the rivet plate top sections, and girder joint sections The level of rust on the bridge is subjective and depends on one's own personal preferences.
LX076-OO double-track bowstring bridge seen in the image below has undergone some kit bashing. This modification has converted it for road traffic instead of trains. The bridge now incorporates a roadway, pavement, crash barriers, prominent warning signs, and safety railings.
What do I do if I've added too much weathering powder?
If you've applied too much weathering powder, firstly… don't panic! Simply moisten a cotton bud (Q-tip) with clean water then gently wipe across the weathered surface to remove excess powder. It's a very effective way of toning down your weathering and is particularly useful for lightening heavily weathered areas.
Sealing
Once you're happy with your weathering effects, you'll need to protect the applied weathering powder before you handle it… Otherwise, you'll have lovely big fingerprints where your weathering used to be! Simply spray a layer of hairspray or matt varnish over the weathered surface and allow it to fully dry before handling the bridge. This will keep the powder intact and prevent it from being smudged or removed when you're installing the bridge on your layout.
In conclusion
This is one of many weathering methods that you can use. If you're new to weathering, the weathering powder & hairspray method is a great technique to experiment with and build up your confidence. Above all, please give it a go and enjoy weathering bridges or similar structures.
Keep On Shuntin'